Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message Obtaining permits to paddle the interior of the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge is a privilege. Because there are often many people seeking permits, and only one party is allowed at a time at each platform, the permits are often hard to come by. And because you have to call in advance to reserve your permit, this means the anticipation grows exponentially in the weeks prior to the trip. My daughter and I booked our three-day trip in early January 2022. Finally, on March 17, our launch day arrived! We checked in at the Okefenokee Adventures and put our canoe laden with camping gear into the waters of the Suwannee Canal on the eastern side of the Swamp. I can't fully express the elation I feel each time I push off solid ground and the canoe finally glides onto the smooth blackwater of the Okefenokee. I'm saturated with a calming satisfaction that I experience on very few other occasions.
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Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message Some may wonder why I have made so many trips to the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. I'm in love. That's the simple answer. I'm in love with this great Swamp; in love with prairie landscapes, in love with the Cypress forests, in love with the jungle of vegetation, in love with the reptiles (even the dangerous ones!), and in love with the solitude of wilderness. As a conservation photographer, it is my goal to document the habitats and inhabitants in this place that I love so much. In March of 2022 my daughter and I made a three-day, two-night paddle from the Suwannee Canal entrance, to the Round Top shelter, to Floyd's Island and back. All along the way I tried to photograph as many of the Okefenokee's inhabitants as possible. It is always my desire to photograph a species that I haven't yet documented. And things started off well on this particular trip with the awkward call and photograph of a Fish Crow. The fish crow (Corvus ossifragus) is a species of crow found in the wetlands of the southeastern United States. Before I became a birder, I didn't even realize there were different species of crows. I just thought every black bird was a "crow". Just like the American Crow (Corvus brachyrhynchos) the Fish Crow is a heavy-billed, large black bird. The Cornell Lab of Ornithology states that the best way to distinguish the two species is by their call. "American Crows give full-throated "caw" notes in pairs, while Fish Crows are more nasal sounding, often giving short notes in pairs" (www.allaboutbirds.org). Most birders describe the Fish Crow's call as the negative exclamation "nuh uh". Although I don't think I can distinguish them 100%, I have American Crows around my house all year round. When the groups of Fish Crows show up, I can hear the difference in their calls. And this black beauty that sounded off during our launch in the Okefenokee sounded just like that stereotypical Fish Crow. So I was happy to get a photo of what many would say was "just another crow", and add the Fish Crow to my Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge checklist. Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia. Three-day paddling trip from Suwannee Canal to Round Top to Floyd's Island. Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message As my daughter and I paddled away from the Suwannee Canal launch area for our three-day overnight excursion into the Okefenokee Swamp in March 2022, our eyes scanned the banks for our first alligator spot of the day. Not too far up the channel we came across a fairly large gator half submerged among the Maidencane. But what caught my attention most was the bright red tag attached to its tail labelled “136”. This had to be an individual from a UGA research project! There is a lot of exciting research that has been going on for several years within the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge and the Okefenokee Swamp Park. Researchers from the University of Georgia have been capturing and tagging alligators and fitting some with satellite trackers. More and more on my recent trips to the Okefenokee, I have been excited to photograph one of the individuals involved in their studies. Spotting these tagged gators brings back memories of the trip that sparked my own alligator fascination back in the 1900’s! The tracking information is used to plot the alligators’ movements through the swamp and provide ideas about range sizes, the wanderings of males, the nesting habits of females, spatial ecology and habitat preference. You can even watch real-time tracks of these gators online! (https://www.ocearch.org/tracker/) The organic samples are also brought back to the lab for genetic and toxicology studies (https://www.facebook.com/UGACoastalEcologyLab/posts/356449716494430). To learn more about UGA’s studies or sponsor an alligator satellite tracker, see https://gail.uga.edu/giving/ecol/alligator-research-and-education Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message The primitive conditions of the Okefenokee Swamp alone make it a challenging endeavor for a multi-night excursion. And if photography is one of your goals, advance planning is even more important. The watery environment of the Okefenokee requires extra precaution. Since blackwater swamps are slow and still, flipping your canoe or kayak in the Okefenokee isn't a threat to equipment. But a popup thunderstorm, especially in the spring, is always a high probability. My photo gear is kept in a rugged, watertight case. I always put my camera into the case when getting into, or out of the canoe. When out of its case, the camera strap is always around my neck while paddling, or attached to the canoe seat by a carabiner (I do the same for my binoculars and GPS). Obviously, there are no power outlets in the midst of the swamp to recharge those spent batteries and there are no camera stores to purchase extra memory cards. I bring 5 fully charged batteries on an extended trip. The less you use the LCD screen to view your photos, the longer the batteries last. So wait until you get home to go through the photos (they'll also be more of a surprise if you wait!). I also turn off the Bluetooth connection with my phone for geotagging the photos. Not only is the reception horrible in the swamp and cause incorrect tagging, but it is a huge drain on the batteries.
In addition to the camera and lenses, I keep some lens wipes, the rain cover, and polarizing filters in the case. I keep a spot empty for my binoculars and a backup battery for my iPhone. Some plastic bags and a small towel are also handy during light rainstorms. But if the rain is hard enough, just put the camera away and try to enjoy the landscapes without worrying over your camera! Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message The first night of our three-day paddling excursion brought us to the Round Top Shelter. After paddling just over 8 miles on the Suwannee Canal, the junction of the purple canoe trail went off to our right and onto Chase Prairie. As we turned, the scene opened up onto a wide, beautiful prairie. The skies that had been overcast the entire day also opened up to a bright blue dome and an orange glowing sun lowering toward the horizon. Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message In March 2022 my daughter and I made a three-day, two-night paddle from the Suwannee Canal entrance, to the Round Top shelter, to Floyd's Island and back. All along the way I tried to photograph as many of the Okefenokee's inhabitants as possible. Day 1 Suwannee Canal (ORANGE TRAIL), Start to Mile 2SUWANNEE CANAL (ORANGE TRAIL), MileS 2 to 4SUWANNEE CANAL (ORANGE TRAIL), MILE 4 TO 5SUWANNEE CANAL (ORANGE TRAIL) MILE 5 TO 6SUWANNEE CANAL (ORANGE TRAIL), MILE 6 TO 7SUWANNEE CANAL (ORANGE TRAIL), MILE 7 TO PURPLE TRAIL JUNCTIONThe only campground within the Okefenokee Swamp is at the Stephen C Foster State Park on the western side of the swamp. But if you want a wilderness camping experience within the interior of the Okefenokee, you’ll need a Wilderness Camping Permit. And during peak seasons, they can be a challenge to obtain.
The US Fish and Wildlife Service maintains a permit hotline to book overnight reservations. It may seem a bit primitive in our modern times to call on a telephone and speak to an actual person rather than book online, but the complexity warrants the current procedure. There are several overnight shelters within the refuge, and a few routes to reach each one. Availability is based on the number of nights you wish to paddle, the availability of overnight platforms, and the route you wish to take (i.e. point-to-point or out-and-back). Having a human being answer the phone truly helps schedule the best available routes. Exactly two months to the day prior to our March 2022 trip, I started ringing the line to the Okefenokee NWR permit hotline promptly at 7:00 AM. After a couple tries, the phone was answered by a cheery staff member! I told her our range of dates and basic plan. She then suggested one night on Round Top, and a second on Floyd's Island. I was quite excited to get that two-night permit and thankful to the staff member who helped arrange it. Just remember, call first thing in the morning and exactly two months prior to your planned trip. Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message An evening and overnight at the Round Top Shelter on Chase Prairie; Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia. Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message From our home in Athens, Georgia, the drive to the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge is about five hours. Even if we start early, it is mid-afternoon when we arrive. There typically isn’t enough time left in the day to go out on the water. So when visiting the eastern side of the Swamp at the Suwannee Canal entrance, as we did in March 2022, our first order of business is a drive along the Swamp Island Wildlife Drive.
This seven-mile drive winds through a beautiful landscape of upland Slash Pine and Saw Palmetto. With car windows down and the MPH at a near crawl, my eyes are always scanning for a Red-cockaded Woodpecker (one day!). Occasionally, Sandhill Crane walk down the middle of the paved drive, and juvenile alligators can always be spotted in the roadside borrow ditches. To the excitement of the first-time visitor, there is often an adult female alligator at the small pond along the roadway, and many times a larger gator basking roadside before reaching the loop. Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message Excerpt from the 1875 Okefenokee Exploration by The Atlanta Constitution: "Now our knees began to feel weak, and tremble beneath the weight upon them; and indeed, we became so thoroughly exhausted that we trudged on and on, with the greatest indifference as to danger of any kind. At one time one of the party trod on a moccasin, and his comrade next behind called to him that he was on a snake, but he did not seem to care, and moved slowly on without looking back, and carelessly asked if he had hurt it! "This was an actual occurrence, and the man shudders now when he thinks of his own carelessness and of the danger of being bitten by that deadly serpent in that dismal wild far from home, and from physicians! If there were any objects of interest in this most hideous part of the swamp, I was too near “wearied unto death” to appreciate it. No, we longed to place our feet again upon terra firma, and our sole idea was to this end." - The Atlanta Constitution, September 23, 1875. In 1875, The Atlanta Constitution published the dramatic headline: “We now announce to our readers, and the people of Georgia, that we are fitting up an expedition for a complete and thorough exploration of Okefinokee. The full details of the plan and expedition will be published soon – if they come out alive.” Over the next months, the paper released many exciting stories from the Okefenokee Swamp. Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message What lurks beneath those waters? That question rolls in the mind as one attempts to peer through the blackwater of the Okefenokee Swamp. The swamp creatures may not be visible in plain sight, but you know they are there. You squint your eyes to look into the dark mirror, but only see the reflection of the dense vegetation and skies above. A dark, monster-like, scaled foot and claw breaking the sphagnum laden surface give only a creepy clue to what may lie below the swamp waters. The Chesser Island Boardwalk is one of most frequented paths by human visitors to the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge in Georgia. And it usually doesn't disappoint! Often, along the way, there are birds, lizards, insects and a snake or gator or two to view. But you have to keep you eyes scanning and searching the details. Other than the birds, the critters may not be right in the open. But a glistening scale from a slithering serpent, or a strange looking object poking from the water has to catch the eye and alert your senses to the presence of a swamp inhabitant. I have often found a medium-sized American Alligator along the first half of the boardwalk. Being creatures of habit, I wouldn't doubt if this is the same gator on multiple visits. On this particular occasion, his clawed foot breaking through the waters along the trail were my first clue to his presence. Being practically right on top of the gator, I got some close-up detail shots of its foot and scales with those surprisingly long claws. Chesser Island Boardwalk; Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia. March 9, 2022. Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message The trails, wildlife drive and guided boat tours at the Suwannee Canal entrance (on the eastern side) of the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge make this a great entry spot for a one-day introduction to the Okefenokee. But if you have more than a day, there is plenty more to explore. But where do you spend the night?
Being a wildlife refuge that is primarily managed for wildlife, there is only one campground within the Okefenokee: the Stephen C Foster State Park on the western side. There are also overnight platforms within the interior but they require permits obtained 2 months in advance. However, right outside the gate of the Suwannee Canal entrance is a private campground called Okefenokee Pastimes. I had passed this campground entrance many times but had never looked into a stay. I typically stayed at Stephen C Foster or Laura S Walker State Parks. Needing an early morning start for our multi-night paddling trip in March 2022, I decided to try Okefenokee Pastimes… and I wasn’t disappointed. In order to avoid setting up and breaking camp, I booked one of the camper cabins. This little cabin was plenty of room for my daughter and I. In fact, we could have fit two more people on the full size bed and bunk bed! The campground was clean and quiet, and the staff were very hospitable. And the fresh chocolate chip cookies handed to us at check-in certainly sealed the deal. I’ll be staying at Okefenokee Pastimes again when the need arises! Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message Off the backside of the Chesser Homestead in the Okefenokee Swamp there is a dead-end trail named Ridley’s Island Trail. Having hiked this little spur before, and facing only a wall of vegetation at the end of a brief boardwalk, I had pretty much written it off as “not much there to see.” But was I wrong! Arriving in the Okefenokee later in the day, there was no time to get on the water for a paddle. So my daughter and I chose to walk the trails on Chesser Island. The Homestead Trail is a short loop that circles the old Swamper cabin where swamp life reenactments are made by refuge staff. An off the backside of the Homestead Trail is the Ridley’s Island Trail. Although some maps show a longer trail that connects to the Swamp Island Drive, the current Ridley’s trail ends after less than a half mile. But with a lot of daylight remaining, we deiced to hike that short spur. All along the way, I prepared my daughter for a letdown. I explained to her that the boardwalk ended abruptly at a wall of vegetation. There is a “wildlife viewing” interpretive sign at the end, but it appears that the jungle hadn’t been cut for some time. But as she was reading the sign, a coiled serpent caught her eye just a few feet from where she stood. With a loud whisper, she got my attention… “Dad! Cottonmouth right there!” A fairly young, thin Cottonmouth then slithered off into the water before I could get a good photo. Excited by the find, we turned to go back and scanned the swamp jungle a little more closely. I then happened to lay my eyes upon the fattest Cottonmouth I’d ever found. I really don’t know how we missed it on the first pass. This thick beauty lay curled asleep about five feet off the boardwalk trail. What a great spot! Two Cottonmouths practically side-by-side. And to think, I dismissed this dead-end trail as pointless. There is never any guarantee of a great find when you set out birding or herping. But the only guarantee is that if you don’t look, you certainly won’t find! So take that “pointless” dead-end trail anyway. You never know what you’ll see! Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia. March 9, 2022. Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message A handful of observations along the Chesser Island Boardwalk Trail, Deerstand Trail, Homestead Trail and Ridley's Island Trail in the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia. Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia. March 9, 2022. William Wise Photo Nature Notes is a wildlife, birding and nature photography blog documenting the beauty, design and wonder of God’s creation. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message Spring is coming! It’s time for the daffodils to bloom, the birds to begin migrating, and the nature photographers to get the equipment ready. But it’s also time for spring marathons! Okay, maybe running extra long distances doesn’t fit in with your lifestyle. But somehow running marathons became another one of my excessive, out-of-balance hobbies. My daughter and I drove up to North Carolina for the annual Wilmington Marathon. The race begins at sunrise near the waves and dunes of Wrightsville Beach. After crossing several bridges, the course heads for downtown Wilmington and, after twenty-six miles, it ends at the convention center. Along the route the race loops Greenfield Lake, a great park for wildlife and birding photography. Knowing that I wouldn’t be carrying my heavy DSLR and telephoto lens during a four-hour run, I went with my daughter for a walk at Greenfield Lake the day before the race. I’ve previously photographed several alligators in the lake and hoped to get some more. Although sunny, it was still a tad cool and breezy, so I only spotted two juvenile alligators, but a myriad of birds. There are always egrets, herons, cormorants, ibis and other water birds at the lake. And the waters are full of turtles! A paved path through well-maintained gardens circles the lake. Playgrounds and gazebos make it a popular place for family outings… and a marathon! The next day, by the time we hit Greenfield Lake during the marathon, we had already run over 17 miles. My daughter was totally spent and I don’t think the beauty of Greenfield Lake registered much in her mind like it had the day before. As I ran, I tried to concentrate on the trees, Spanish moss, flitting birds and budding plants. The solace of the lake and its picturesque view helped me to divert some of the pain developing in my legs. I’m thankful that some of the marathon course wound its way through this park. But I was even happier when the 26.2 miles finally ended and that medal was in hand! Greenfield Lake, Hanover County, North Carolina. |
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