Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message From the journals of naturalist Francis Harper, 1929: a conversation with Swamper Ezekiel Henderson… “I was fishing one time in Billies with my old uncle. I was doing the rowing and he was doing the fishing. The ’gators made such a racket I didn’t know what it was. And he told me it was the gators amuddying Big Bonnet Lake by Billy‘s lake. He told me to paddle easy and not hit the boat with the paddle, so we’d slip up on ’em and not disturb ’em and see ’em fishing. We got around a little clump of bushes in plain of Big Bonnet Lake, and they must have been somewhere between one and two thousand of the gators. Bonnet Lake was about four or five acres big. And them gators would rise and jump their length and go down. The bottom of Bonnet Lake is a soft mud. And it was easy to muddy. And they all muddy at the same time, and then stop at the same time and go to fishing just a few breaths. There was jumping and sloshing. They’d go down to the bottom and dig up the mud and scatter it with their tails. And then they’d go to fishing again. I remember one tremendous big alligator that rose up in the water with a trout in his mouth, about 12 or 14 pounds. Had him crossways in his mouth. And he just moved up to the bank and jammed against the bank until he got him headfirst in his mouth, and then swallowed him. That was the first time I was ever there when there was so many gators. And I’ve seen the gators so thick, it look like if you’d been out of the boat and if the gators had held your weight, you could walk all over the lake on gator heads.”
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Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message In April 2024, my daughter and I embarked on another 3-day paddling excursion across the Okefenokee Swamp from Kingfisher Landing to Stephen C Foster. While there are open views of the beautiful swamp prairies, many of the waterways constrict down to narrow channels walled by tangled vegetation. In such thick, muddled mess of vegetation, you can paddle miles without seeing anything but leaves and grasses. On one particular stretch, I just had "that feeling", and began to scan the twisted briars along the run. I have no idea how my daughter and I spotted this pencil-thin, juvenile Ribbon Snake in the tangled vegetation. But what a find! Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia. April 19, 2024. Paddling from Kingfisher Landing to Maul Hammock overnight shelter. Most of the big alligators concentrate on the larger, open lakes within the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. Some of the smaller ones may take up residence along the more shallow and constricted runs through the swamp. This pair of large alligators was lurking just off the main canoe trail along the Suwannee River Middle Fork, just a few hundreds yards up from Billy’s Lake. Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia. Sunday, April 16, 2023. Other alligators along Billy's Lake:
Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message I have to admit, my lure to the Great Okefenokee Swamp is the alligators and snakes. But for those seeking a less hostile beauty, this National Wildlife Refuge holds treasures for the botanist and flower hunter. At certain times of the year, the blue/purple Southern Blue Flag irises stand tall above the bright Yellow Bonnet Lilies. Vibrant multi-colored spikes of Golden Club protrude from the dark waters. Tiny bells of Lyonia hang gracefully along the canoe trails. And the quintessential American White Water Lilies shine brightly in the prairies and cypress houses. Not to mention the many other species of vegetation and flora.
Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message It never fails: whenever I show someone a close-up photo of an alligator that I shot while paddling the Okefenokee Swamp, they say, “Isn’t that dangerous to be so close?” But I’ve paddled the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge many times and haven’t come close to any type of incident. Most of the wildlife in the refuge want nothing to do with people and keep their distance.
However, I do have to say that it may appear a bit disconcerting as you paddle for the first time and have alligators “charge” your kayak. The gators typically spend their day on the banks or on top of logs sunning themselves. As they see a canoe approaching they often enter the water and swim towards you. But they are not “charging” the boat! They feel vulnerable when exposed on the high ground, and are simply taking to the cover and safety of deeper water. So it may look like they are "charging" at your boat. But relax, they are just as reluctant to get into a tangle with you as you are with them! Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message The Suwannee River Sill Recreation Area in the Okefenokee Swamp National Wildlife Refuge is an accessible and convenient place to see some large alligators. The long drive to dam runs parallel to the canal. Even if you have mobility issues and can't walk, on sunny days you'll see large gators and softshell turtles basking on the banks, just 30 yards from your car! And because the UGA Coastal Ecology Lab has done a lot of research along the Sill, you may even spot an alligator with a colorful tail tag. Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message On Saturday, April 15, 2023, after helping the UGA Coastal Ecology Lab with some alligator capture-tag-and release, my daughter and I paddled from the Sill Recreation Area westward against the current, up the Suwannee River. Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message Have you ever read a swamp? Urbanites like me may have read much about the swamp, but don't have the gift that the Swampers have in reading the details of the Okefenokee. According to the great naturalist Francis Harper - no doubt wisdom he gained from the Okefenokee Swampers - when "a boat or a bear passes over a watery Prairie, the bonnet leaves in the trail remain upturned on one side for several hours afterward. The upturned side of the leaf indicates the direction from which the boat or animal has come." Excerpt from Francis Harper's Mammals of the Okefinokee Swamp, published March 1927 Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message Thankfully, a rescheduled spring trip to the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge! My daughter wasn't able to go for our usual March paddle this year during her spring break. But her class schedule allowed us to sneak in a long weekend in April instead.
We arrived at the Stephen C Foster State Park campground late in the evening on April 14 and did a little bit of cruising. I found my second Timber Rattlesnake within the refuge boundaries, but unfortunately it had recently been hit by a car (and was still barely writhing). After sunset, I was able to photograph my first Chuck-wills-widow as several kept landing in the roadway while we were cruising for herps. It takes a team to wrangle a gator! On April 14, 2023, I was excited to be invited to photograph an American Alligator capture-tag-release outing with the UGA Coastal Ecology Lab. When my daughter and I arrived, the action was already in full swing and a gator was being hauled up on the bank for measuring. The team leader, Mark Hoog, uses some heavy-duty fishing tackle to snag the alligator and haul it in for the research team to tag. Having watched a few rounds, most of the alligators were less than willing to participate and gave Hoog quite a workout! As the gator tires and is reeled closer to shore, two researchers stand by with a snare pole and rope to make the final haul-in. Once upon the shore, one of the team sneaks up behind the gators and quickly lands upon its neck and presses the mouth shut. Almost immediately, the other team members take a pre-determined seat along the alligator’s length. Right away, the mouth is safely taped shut and the alligator’s legs are lifted off the ground to prevent it from rolling. Thankfully, most of the gators are fairly tired from fighting in the water that too much resistance isn’t encountered. Once safely restrained, team members measure each alligator’s length and girth in several different areas. A plastic cattle tag is attached to the tail and a labelling code is cut into the scales along the tail. On some occasions, blood is drawn for genetic studies and GPS trackers are attached to the alligators’ backs. Once all the data is carefully recorded, the gators are safely released back into the water. Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message On the last day of my Fall 2022 solo Okefenokee paddle, I launched from Kingfisher Landing on the east side of the swamp to explore green canoe trail southward through Durden Prairie. I turned around at the 5 mile marker. This portion of the Okefenokee is lined with tall Pitcher Plants and yellow wildflowers. Red Canoe Trail, Mile 0-2Green Trail, mile 2-3After paddling a mile from the Kingfisher Landing launch, the canoe trail splits. The red trail continues northward through Carter Prairie and continues many miles to Maul Hammock, Big Water, through Minnie's Lake and down to Billy's Lake. I chose to go southward along the green trail, not having paddled this route before. The green trail eventually takes you to Floyd's Island. I was delighted to see a few patches of Water Shield as I paddled the narrow channel. But my excitement soon faded as it became so thick that the trolling motor was useless and paddling was a challenge! Green Trail, mile 3-4I was quickly becoming a bit jaded fighting with the sphagnum and water shield, all without seeing much in the way of birds and wildlife. But as I considered turning back, the Okefenokee threw out another surprise as I saw two, possibly three, River Otters swimming the narrow channel. Two disappeared into the vegetation, but one was quite curious and stay ahead of me for a quarter mile, constantly diving and resurfacing to check me out. Green Trail, Mile 4-5Green Trail, Return PaddleAfter reaching the five-mile marker, I reluctantly turned back and made the last leg of my Fall paddle through the Okefenokee Swamp. Leaving is always the worst part of every Oke trip. Dock and entry roadI was slow to leave the Okefenokee, for I knew it would be at least four or five months before I returned. As I loaded my canoe I could hear numerous Sandhill Crane calling. As I pulled away from the parking lot, I found them in a field. I was also distracted by a large group of perching birds in the pines. There were many Pine Warblers and at least one Black and White Warbler mixed in. I also shot my first American Kestrel within the refuge boundaries.
Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message During my solo Okefenokee Swamp paddle in October, I wanted to hit some trails that I had never paddled before. I decided to hit the green trail south of the Suwannee Canal down to Monkey Lake, and, if time, to Buzzards Roost Lake. Orange Trail Miles 0-2The first two miles out from the Okefenokee Adventures launch follows the Suwannee Canal (orange trail) for two miles before heading south. Pink Trail, Mile Markers 0 to 1Approximately 2 miles out the Suwannee Canal the Green Canoe Trail down to Monkey Lake branches off to the left. The first view is of beautiful Chesser Prairie. Pink Trail, Mile Markers 1 to 2PINK TRAIL, MILE MARKERS 2 to 3PINK TRAIL, MILE MARKERS 3 to 4PINK TRAIL, MILE MARKERS 4 to 5PINK TRAIL, MILE MARKERS 5 to 6RETURN PADDLE |
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