Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message An evening and overnight at the Round Top Shelter on Chase Prairie; Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia.
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Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message From our home in Athens, Georgia, the drive to the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge is about five hours. Even if we start early, it is mid-afternoon when we arrive. There typically isn’t enough time left in the day to go out on the water. So when visiting the eastern side of the Swamp at the Suwannee Canal entrance, as we did in March 2022, our first order of business is a drive along the Swamp Island Wildlife Drive.
This seven-mile drive winds through a beautiful landscape of upland Slash Pine and Saw Palmetto. With car windows down and the MPH at a near crawl, my eyes are always scanning for a Red-cockaded Woodpecker (one day!). Occasionally, Sandhill Crane walk down the middle of the paved drive, and juvenile alligators can always be spotted in the roadside borrow ditches. To the excitement of the first-time visitor, there is often an adult female alligator at the small pond along the roadway, and many times a larger gator basking roadside before reaching the loop. Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message Excerpt from the 1875 Okefenokee Exploration by The Atlanta Constitution: "Now our knees began to feel weak, and tremble beneath the weight upon them; and indeed, we became so thoroughly exhausted that we trudged on and on, with the greatest indifference as to danger of any kind. At one time one of the party trod on a moccasin, and his comrade next behind called to him that he was on a snake, but he did not seem to care, and moved slowly on without looking back, and carelessly asked if he had hurt it! "This was an actual occurrence, and the man shudders now when he thinks of his own carelessness and of the danger of being bitten by that deadly serpent in that dismal wild far from home, and from physicians! If there were any objects of interest in this most hideous part of the swamp, I was too near “wearied unto death” to appreciate it. No, we longed to place our feet again upon terra firma, and our sole idea was to this end." - The Atlanta Constitution, September 23, 1875. In 1875, The Atlanta Constitution published the dramatic headline: “We now announce to our readers, and the people of Georgia, that we are fitting up an expedition for a complete and thorough exploration of Okefinokee. The full details of the plan and expedition will be published soon – if they come out alive.” Over the next months, the paper released many exciting stories from the Okefenokee Swamp. Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message What lurks beneath those waters? That question rolls in the mind as one attempts to peer through the blackwater of the Okefenokee Swamp. The swamp creatures may not be visible in plain sight, but you know they are there. You squint your eyes to look into the dark mirror, but only see the reflection of the dense vegetation and skies above. A dark, monster-like, scaled foot and claw breaking the sphagnum laden surface give only a creepy clue to what may lie below the swamp waters. The Chesser Island Boardwalk is one of most frequented paths by human visitors to the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge in Georgia. And it usually doesn't disappoint! Often, along the way, there are birds, lizards, insects and a snake or gator or two to view. But you have to keep you eyes scanning and searching the details. Other than the birds, the critters may not be right in the open. But a glistening scale from a slithering serpent, or a strange looking object poking from the water has to catch the eye and alert your senses to the presence of a swamp inhabitant. I have often found a medium-sized American Alligator along the first half of the boardwalk. Being creatures of habit, I wouldn't doubt if this is the same gator on multiple visits. On this particular occasion, his clawed foot breaking through the waters along the trail were my first clue to his presence. Being practically right on top of the gator, I got some close-up detail shots of its foot and scales with those surprisingly long claws. Chesser Island Boardwalk; Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia. March 9, 2022. Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message The trails, wildlife drive and guided boat tours at the Suwannee Canal entrance (on the eastern side) of the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge make this a great entry spot for a one-day introduction to the Okefenokee. But if you have more than a day, there is plenty more to explore. But where do you spend the night?
Being a wildlife refuge that is primarily managed for wildlife, there is only one campground within the Okefenokee: the Stephen C Foster State Park on the western side. There are also overnight platforms within the interior but they require permits obtained 2 months in advance. However, right outside the gate of the Suwannee Canal entrance is a private campground called Okefenokee Pastimes. I had passed this campground entrance many times but had never looked into a stay. I typically stayed at Stephen C Foster or Laura S Walker State Parks. Needing an early morning start for our multi-night paddling trip in March 2022, I decided to try Okefenokee Pastimes… and I wasn’t disappointed. In order to avoid setting up and breaking camp, I booked one of the camper cabins. This little cabin was plenty of room for my daughter and I. In fact, we could have fit two more people on the full size bed and bunk bed! The campground was clean and quiet, and the staff were very hospitable. And the fresh chocolate chip cookies handed to us at check-in certainly sealed the deal. I’ll be staying at Okefenokee Pastimes again when the need arises! Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message A handful of observations along the Chesser Island Boardwalk Trail, Deerstand Trail, Homestead Trail and Ridley's Island Trail in the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia. Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia. March 9, 2022. Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge and Stephen C Foster State Park. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message An American Alligator laying alongside the Chesser Island Boardwalk allowed ample opportunity for some close-up study. Alligator's have upward facing nostrils at the end of the snout that allow it to breath while the body is underwater. The nostrils have flaps which close when the alligator is submerged. Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia, USA. The American Alligator is perfectly designed for the swamp habitats that they frequent. The eyes and nostrils protrude above the plane of the snout so that the body and head can be totally submerged yet they still can see and breath. The nostrils are positioned on a fleshy mound at the tip of the alligator’s snout. The nostrils can close like a valve when submerging to prevent breathing in water. Sensitive nerve endings around the nostrils signal the alligator to close its nostrils as they touch the water’s surface. In the colder winter months, a gator may submerged for days with just its nostrils poking above the surface. Chesser Island Boardwalk; Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia. Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge and Stephen C Foster State Park. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message One bird always guaranteed to be seen in the Okefenokee Swamp is the Turkey Vulture. In the hot summer months when most birds are hiding in the shade, or in the late fall and winter when other birds have migrated on, the Turkey Vulture is often the only bird seen circling overhead. The eBird frequency chart shows a thick blue line every month through the year, graphically representing its continuous presence, and showing it be more frequently observed than its cousin the Black Vulture. Even in the days of naturalists Albert Wright and Francis Harper (1913), the Turkey Vulture was a common sight. They write in The Auk, “TURKEY VIULTURE; 'Buz- zard.'- Common throughout the swamp. The natives have never found its nest. They told us, however, of several roosts, including one at Mud Valley (south of Billy's Lake) and another in the dead tops of some cy- presses in a small 'head' on Floyd's Island Prairie. It is astonishing how soon the Buzzards appear over a spot where an alligator has been shot, and how quickly they transform its carcass into a bare skeleton.” Suwannee River Sill; Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia. Wright, Albert and Francis Harper. A Biological Reconnaissance of the Okefinokee Swamp: The Birds. The Auk, Vol. 30, No. 4 (Oct., 1913), pp. 477-505 Published by: Oxford University Press.
Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge and Stephen C Foster State Park. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message The Double-crested Cormorant is a strange looking bird. Cornell’s website www.allaboutbirds.org states, “They look like a combination of a goose and a loon.” They are quite common throughout the Okefenokee Swamp and I’ve seen them on every visit, and within every type of habitat within the swamp. Like the Anhinga, the Double-Crested Cormorant does not have oil glands like the ducks. Instead of floating on the surface, it is able to dive and swim underwater for long periods of time and, as I have seen myself, for some good distances. I have sat and waited for a Cormorant to resurface for a photograph, only to have it pop up many yards away. Nannopterum auritum’s main staple is fish. Since it lacks the buoyancy made possible by the oil glands, it often swims the surface with just its head out of the water. Once it is done fishing, it perches nearby, often with its wings spread in order to dry out. Suwannee River Sill; Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia. Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge and Stephen C Foster State Park. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message Not all of the Okefenokee is swamped with water. There are some sandy islands within the refuge and plenty of pine uplands that surround the swamp. Large puddles readily form after rainfall, but do drain, especially in a drought. Slash Pine, Saw Palmetto and grasses are the dominant growth in these upland areas. The once over-logged Longleaf Pine is making a coming in these upland areas due to managed plantations by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. The drier upland areas provide habitat for wildlife not as regularly found in the wetter habitats like Glass Lizards and Gopher Tortoises. One may also be more likely to find one of the three rattlesnake species – Eastern Diamondback, Pygmy and Timber – found within the Refuge in the drier upland areas. Swamp Island Drive; Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia. Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge and Stephen C Foster State Park. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message The first day of a fall Okefenokee Swamp paddle, I came across a couple groups of 50 to 100 tree swallows over the prairies near Kingfisher Landing. By my fourth day, on The Sill, there were hundreds and hundreds - probably thousands - looping and diving overhead. It was quite a trick to get a decent photograph of just one fast-moving little bird.
Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge and Stephen C Foster State Park. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message The eBird frequency chart shows the Snowy Egret, Egretta thula, is a year-round inhabitant of the Okefenokee Swamp, but perhaps not as frequent as the other long-legged wading birds. Over the course of many paddling trips, I've only found them occasionally, and mostly along the Suwannee River Sill Recreation Area. For the non-birder, the Snowy Egret looks pretty much like all the other white herons and egrets in the swamp. The astute observer might notice a difference in size, but how else are they distinguished? The most telling feature is the Snowy Egret's golden slippers. The adults have long black legs that end in bright yellow feet. This distinguishes them from greenish legs of the Little Blue Herons (which are white as juveniles). The bill of the Snowy Egret is black, with yellow around the eyes, while the Little Blue Heron juvenile has a two-toned bill. The other common white wading bird in the Okefenokee is the Great Egret. It is unmistakably larger and taller than the delicate Snowy Egret. In the 1800's, in order to satisfy the fashion industry, the Snowy Egrets were hunted for the long white plumes on their heads. According to allaboutbirds.com, the much sought feathers were twice the price of gold at the time. "Plume-hunting for the fashion industry killed many Snowy Egrets and other birds until reforms were passed in the early twentieth century." This might explain why, upon his visit in 1917, Okefenokee naturalist Francis Harper failed to see any within the swamp. His report in The Auk stated, "SNOWY EGRET; 'Egret.'- A plume-bird, called the 'Egret,' was found in the swamp twenty years ago." He regrettably laments that the Snowy Egret, and some others, "did not come under our own notice." The Suwannee River Sill; Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia. Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge and Stephen C Foster State Park. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message While I thoroughly enjoy any season in the Okefenokee Swamp, I felt as if I had “struck out” with wildlife observations on my November 2021 trip. Particularly with alligators. I had only seen a dozen or so in three days. So before heading home, I knew where to go: The Sill! Its an 85 mile drive around the Okefenokee to get from the eastern entrance to the Suwannee River Sill on the western side. You head south into Florida, then across the bottom of the Okefenokee along the Georgia/Florida line, and back north to Fargo. The Sill is off Highway 77 just before the Stephen C Foster State Park. The Sill isn’t very attractive for landscape photography, and isn’t very exciting for swamp exploration. It is a long, straight, manmade canal with little vegetation. But those deep waters and clear banks usually mean alligators basking in the sun. In fact, I’ve seen some of the biggest alligators in all my visits laying out along The Sill. My short paddle of almost four hours resulted in more photographs and more diversity than the previous two days. Even though it was a cool fall day, there were plenty of alligators basking and swimming. The Sill never lets me down for alligators... I spotted over thirty! I even got an Okefenokee Lifer, a Southern Ringneck Snake (although DOA on the road). Suwannee River Sill Recreation Area; Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia. Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge and Stephen C Foster State Park. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message Whenever a car stops along Swamp Island Drive, a wildlife viewing drive winding through the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, you can almost be sure there’s an alligator basking. But another large swamp inhabitant that will make folks put on the brakes is the Sandhill Crane. These long-legged birds are quite a spectacle for those who haven’t seen them before. I have to admit, when I spotted four along the roadside, I had to stop too! Standing at almost five feet tall, Antigone canadensis are quite impressive birds! Even if not seen, their strange trumpeting call can be heard throughout the Okefenokee. In 1913, naturalist Francis Harper wrote of the Sandhill Crane’s call, “Their note is one of the finest sounds of the swamp. It is so unbirdlike, and yet rings so clear, is so far-reaching, and possesses such measured qualities, that the listener longs for an instant repetition.” While they can be quite secretive, they can be seen foraging on the open prairies, especially on Chesser and Grand Prairie on the eastern side of the Swamp. They scrounge for anything from seeds and berries to insects and small reptiles or amphibians. eBird frequency charts show the Sandhill Crane can be found throughout the year in the Okefenokee, with the highest sightings in the winter months. Swamp Island Drive; Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia. Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge and Stephen C Foster State Park. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message Because of their preference for shallow wetlands, the White Ibis is a common inhabitant of the Okefenokee Swamp. eBird frequency charts for Charlton County shows consistent observations listed every month of the year. Their bright orange legs, and somewhat goofy-looking curved orange bill make them hard to misidentify. The small groups that gather together to amble along stir up the waters during feeding time adds to their comical appearance. In the air, they are much more graceful in appearance, especially when a golden sunrise or sunset illuminates their white bodies and black tipped wings as they fly overhead. According to Francis Harper, the swampers referred to them as White Curlews, or more simply, Curlew. They also referred to the brown juveniles as a separate species. “The natives speak of ' Brown Curlews ' which often fly and feed apart from the white forms. They also designate some brown and white ones as ' Pieded Curlews ' or ' Black- pieded Curlews,' which roost with the other two. These are doubtless the younger phases of the one species. The hunters eat these ' Curlews' either 'stewed like chicken' or fried...” Suwannee River Sill Recreation Area; Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia. |
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