![]() Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge and Stephen C Foster State Park. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message A PLACE OF MEMORIESAfter tensely navigating through over a mile of the Narrows, the scene expanded forth into a beautiful prairie. A juvenile alligator and a pair of Ibises welcomed us into the opened, bright sky. Yet again, I missed a photo of a colorful male Wood Duck, but captured a sharp shot of a nervously diving Grebe. It appeared as if we had emerged onto a remote African savannah in another time. Tall brown grasses lined the sides of the canoe trail and stretched far off into the distance. Large green Spatterdock leaves floated in small bays as the canoe channel began to widen. This beautiful prairie was a place of solitude, a place of memory; memories of logging and wild fires of centuries gone by. Like passing through jagged dragon’s teeth, the waterway was lined on both banks with large, jagged Cypress stumps, blackened by fire. We passed through a double line of vertical pilings standing five feet out of the water; the remains of a logging train track. The National Park’s website had warned that water levels were low and dropping. Although it hadn’t seemed the case so far, the condition now became obvious. The widened bases of the Cypress trees stood far out of the water, taking on an almost comical shape, skirted as with large dresses of the Victorian era. At one passage between two Cypress trees, a piece of pvc pipe was screwed to one tree to act as a bumper for passing boats. But the bumper was a good ten to twelve feet above our heads!
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![]() Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge and Stephen C Foster State Park. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message A passage from William Bartram's Travels, in which he examines the nest of the American Alligator during his exploration of Georgia and Florida from 1779 to 1776.
William Bartram was a botantist, artist, and nature writer that explored the southeastern United States around the time of the American Revolution (1773-1776). He was a scientist, creationist and Christian that gave glory to the Author for all the wonderful works he observed and documented in his book, Travels Through North and South Carolina, Georgia, East and West Florida. ![]() Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge and Stephen C Foster State Park. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message A spooky excerpt from A Florida Sketch-Book, by naturalist Bradford Torrey, written in 1895: There—going one day farther than usual—I found myself in the borderland of a cypress swamp. On one side was the lake, but between me and it were cypress-trees; and on the other side was the swamp itself, a dense wood growing in stagnant black water covered here and there with duckweed or some similar growth: a frightful place it seemed, the very abode of snakes and everything evil. Stories of slaves hiding in cypress swamps came into my mind. It must have been cruel treatment that drove them to it! Buzzards flew about my head, and looked at me. “He has come here to die,” I imagined them saying among themselves. “No one comes here for anything else. Wait a little, and we will pick his bones.” They perched nearby, and, not to lose time, employed the interval in drying their wings, for the night had been showery. Once in a while one of them shifted his perch with an ominous rustle. They were waiting for me, and were becoming impatient. “He is long about it,” one said to another; and I did not wonder. The place seemed one from which none who entered it could ever go out; and there was no going farther in without plunging into that horrible mire. I stood still, and looked and listened. Some strange noise, “bird or devil,” came from the depths of the wood. A flock of grackles settled in a tall cypress, and for a time made the place loud. How still it was after they were gone! I could hardly withdraw my gaze from the green water full of slimy black roots and branches, any one of which might suddenly lift its head and open its deadly white mouth! All about me gigantic cypresses, every one swollen enormously at the base, rose straight and branchless into the air. Dead trees, one might have said,—light-colored, apparently with no bark to cover them; but if I glanced up, I saw that each bore at the top a scanty head of branches just now putting forth fresh green leaves, while long funereal streamers of dark Spanish moss hung thickly from every bough. The dismal swamp had me under its spell, and meanwhile the patient buzzards looked at me. “It is almost time,” they said; “the fever will do its work,”—and I began to believe it. Torrey, B. (1895). Chapter 6: “On the Upper St. John’s”. A Florida Sketch-Book . ![]() Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge and Stephen C Foster State Park. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message Excerpt from the 1926 History of the Okefenokee Swamp by AS McQueen and Hamp Mizell:
![]() Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge and Stephen C Foster State Park. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message On this trip to the Okefenokee Wildlife I pushed myself to look beyond the gators and snakes and pay attention to something I usually neglect: the plant life. Of course there are the stately Cypress trees adorned with waving Spanish Moss that set the backdrop for the swamp. But I also tried to take the time to learn and photograph the other vegetation: Hatpin, Spatterdock, Neverwet, Hurrah Bush, Resurrection Fern and purple Swamp Irises. Okefenokee Tussock GrowthThe canoe trails of the Okefenokee Swamp are full of character and adventure. As one paddles through the black water, eyes peer upward at the heights of the towering cypress. But don’t forget to look ahead!, the waterways are often marked with obstacles. One of those interesting obstructions which force some agile steering is known as Tussock Growth. A tussock is an abnormal tufted growth of vegetation on a tree or stump, typically caused by a disturbance. In the case of the Okefenokee, this “disturbance” was the logging of the swamp in the early 1900’s. The scars and stumps of the logging operations still remain throughout the Okefenokee. Protruding from the surface during low-water periods, these remaining buttresses of harvested cypress accumulate organic matter and hold moisture; a perfect platform for the growth of grasses, wildflowers and shrubs. These tufts of vegetation dot the lakes and canals throughout the swamp, like wild hair-dos on the heads of Ents or trolls bathing in the dark waters. The Swamp is full of character… especially if you let your imagination roll! ![]() Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message An exciting excerpt from Louis Pendleton's 1895 book, In the Okefenokee: Accordingly, as soon as they were opposite another island, Joe struck out toward it through the bonnets and sedge. In this way they came presently into a little round open pool about a hundred feet in diameter, heedless of several dark floating objects a short distance ahead. Suddenly the water about them became curiously agitated, and with a cry of horror Joe looked toward Charley. “Jump up on the log!” he said. “We're in a 'gator hole!" Neither of them could afterward have told how they did it; but almost in a moment, both stood on a log balancing themselves with their long poles, which were thrust down to the bottom, the water being only about seven feet in depth. Under their weight the log sank so low that it was almost entirely submerged, and the position of the two boys was little improved, supposing they were to be attacked. The pool now seemed alive with alligators, large and small, for fifty feet around; and the boys were greatly terrified, although the huge scaly creatures still lay quiet on the water or swam lazily about, gazing at the intruders with their black, lustreless eyes. “They're going to eat us up!” gasped poor Charley, hardly able to maintain his upright position. "Don't be afraid,” said Joe, in a low voice, although desperately afraid himself. “They don't look as if they want to hurt us. See how quiet they are.” He then suggested that they pole the log out of its dangerous neighborhood, and this they did very slowly and cautiously, lifting their long sticks halfway out of the water and guardedly thrusting them to the bottom again . Although they passed within a few inches of some of the reptiles in the course of their retreat, the latter were not roused from their sleepy indifference, and permitted an easy prey to escape them . Pendleton, Louis. In the Okefenokee: A Story of War Time and the Great Georgia Swamp. United States, Roberts Brothers, 1895. Page 127 ![]() Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge and Stephen C Foster State Park. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message A beautiful description of spring in the Okefenokee Swamp from Cecil Hulse Matchat's 1938 novel, Strange Green Land:
Cecile Matschat’s works published in 1930's are full of colorful stories of the Swampers that lived in the Okefenokee, exciting folklore encounters with bear, boar and cannibal alligators, as well as scientific descriptions of the flora and fauna of the great swamp. They are a worthwhile purchase if you come across used copies of these collectible out-of-print treasures of Okefenokee literature. ![]() Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge and Stephen C Foster State Park. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message Sunday, 9:04 AM - Another bright, blue calm morning on Billy’s Lake as we slowly paddle westward for a day up the brown trail to The Sill. Passing on close to the edge of the lake, a funny acting Eastern Gray Squirrel has himself pressed tightly flat against a tree. Was he hiding from us? Was he sheltering from the chilled breeze? The question is quickly answered as the loud shriek of a Red-shouldered Hawk blares from high up in a neighboring tree. The Red-shouldered Hawks were quite prominent and vocal throughout this trip. Their calls heard from dawn to dusk, throughout all the varying habitats.
![]() Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge and Stephen C Foster State Park. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message Sunday, 12:45 PM - Compared to the challenging navigation through The Narrows (brown trail), the paddling became much easier. The strong current caused by the low water levels carried us quickly through Mixon’s Hammock and into the area named The Sill. The Suwannee River Sill Recreation Area is a man-made canal built in 1960 with dams to control the water levels. The purpose was to maintain water levels during drought and thereby reduce the chance of wildfires. However, the project failed in that goal, for it had no real effect on the water levels throughout the swamp. However, The Sill is a popular recreation area, primarily for fishing. Because the man-made canal was wide and straight, it was also somewhat less interesting than some of the deeper areas of the swamp. Part of the suspense of the cypress forests is the wondering expectation of what may be around the next bend. But on the Sill, the view remains unobstructed for quite a distance, revealing that nothing too exciting is awaiting your arrival. However, some very large gators could be seen diving into the waters as our canoe approached. Going up The Sill, the trolling motor was set on the highest speed to battle the current and the wind that were both attempting to impede our passage. Fast flowing streams of rushing water were draining off the prairie into the Sill to further empower the current against our progress. Our going was so slow, at one point we were even overtaken by four walkers on the left bank. Approximately halfway up the Sill, we attempted to follow the fork of the brown trail as it continues towards Cravens Hammock. I had desired to overnight at the shelter, but was told before our departure that it was not accessible due to low waters. And they were right. Not even a quarter mile off The Sill we encountered low water and downed trees hampering our passage. Not wanting to be beaten, I tried to pull loose a dam of limbs, branches and debris choking the trail. But prying with my oar, all I managed to do was stir a bunch of fire ants into the water and then splash Amanda, arousing her frustration. I gave up the attempt when I accidentally splashed her a second time. We back-tracked the short distance and continued further up The Sill. Our destination: Pine Island. It seemed there must be something there, for someone had posted the GPS coordinates on the internet. The road from the day-use recreation area having ended, the last several miles of The Sill were more secluded from other visitors, but still a wide, unnatural looking, man-made canal. And upon reaching Pine Island, we found… nothing. No place to get out of the canoe and stretch our legs. The canal just came to an end in a shallow pool of Maidencane. We took a few minutes to eat our lunch of summer sausage, cheese whiz and crackers. The sun climbed higher as we ate our lunch, encouraging the gators to take to their sunning spots along the banks. We had noticed many patches of mud and pressed grasses on our journey up The Sill. Now, those same patches were occupied by “The Monsters of The Sill.” The boring Sill had somewhat redeemed itself by presenting us with the spectacle of some really big gators; a few of which made dramatic, tidal-wave producing dives into the water as we passed by.
![]() Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge and Stephen C Foster State Park. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message Sunday, 9:37 AM - By advantage of the trolling motor, we quickly traveled to the western end of Billy’s Lake. As the lake tapered, the trees and shrubs on the shore greatly increased. We soon passed a sign pointing toward “The Narrows/The Sill.” Even without the sign, it was obvious the canoe trail was entering The Narrows. Quite quickly we were shut in on either side by branches and bushes that arched up over our heads. The canoe trail began to grow shady, winding back and forth with the current through the vegetation, around cypress trees, over downed limbs and logs. The quickening current was made obvious by the ripples around the corners and bases of the trees; an advantage to paddling, but a disadvantage to navigation. Travelling downstream, the current can overtake steering and often put the canoe in spots we did not desire. Amanda’s greatest frustration with the Okefenokee, this trip and last, was floating into the jagged bushes often tipped in small spider webs with anticipatory arachnids waiting to jump in for a ride. The Narrows was the peak of this frustration. Other than a bird or two crouching hidden amongst the vegetation, there was little wildlife to photograph within the confines of The Narrows.
![]() Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge and Stephen C Foster State Park. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message Excerpt from William Bartram's Travels, Part II, Chapter III:
William Bartram was a botantist, artist, and nature writer that explored the southeastern United States around the time of the American Revolution (1773-1776). He was a scientist, creationist and Christian that gave glory to the Author for all the wonderful works he observed and documented in his book, Travels Through North and South Carolina, Georgia, East and West Florida. ![]() Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message Alligators are often seen floating on the surface of the water, like logs of wood , and are mistaken for such by various animals, which, by this means, they surprise and draw underneath to devour at leisure. They are said also sometimes to form a hole in the bank of a river, below the surface of the water, and there to wait till the fish that are fatigued by the strong current come into the smooth water to rest themselves, when they immediately seize and devour them . But as they are not able to obtain a regular supply of food , from the fear in which they are held by all animals, and the care by which these in general avoid their haunts, they are able to sustain a privation of it for a great length of time. The Wonders of the Animal Kingdom; Exhibiting Delineations of the most distinguished Wild Animals in the Various Menageries of this Country. London, 1829. By Robert Huish ![]() Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge and Stephen C Foster State Park. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message A favorite passage from William Bartram's Travels, published in 1791.
William Bartram was a botantist, artist, and nature writer that explored the southeastern United States around the time of the American Revolution (1773-1776). He was a scientist, creationist and Christian that gave glory to the Author for all the wonderful works he observed and documented in his book, Travels Through North and South Carolina, Georgia, East and West Florida. ![]() Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge and Stephen C Foster State Park. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message Sunday, 6:14 PM - Nine hours on the canoe trails of the Okefenokee Swamp! Nine continuous hours in the canoe without a break to stretch our legs or use the bathroom. Nine hours of pulling on the paddles in the mid-day sun. Tiring, but I wouldn’t give up the experience for anything. After a there-and-back-again paddle to the Sill, which included the treacherous navigation through the Narrows and our upstream struggle on Mixon’s Hammock, we made it back to Billy’s Lake toward evening. Back to calm waters and the serenity of roosting Cormorants, drumming Pileated Woodpeckers, and alligators attempting to soak in the last rays of the setting sun. The daylight was beginning to fade, the trolling motor battery was beginning to fade, and we were beginning to fade. But we arrived before dark. A full day on the blackwater swamp. Back at Stephen C Foster base camp, we cooked our hotdogs over the fire pit, we strolled the boardwalk, and visited a spell with Sophie. "Sophie" has been at the Stephen C Foster boat ramp every time we have visited. She's been there many years and has filled that channel with babies each year. My daughter and I typically end each day in the swamp by saying goodnight to "Sophie". While standing off to the side and admiring her for a few minutes, I caught her in a yawn.
Our yawns had caught up with us as well. We spent the last hours of the evening listening to the Barred Owls call beyond the reaches of light from our camp fire, and then retired after a full day of paddling. I love it here! ![]() Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge and Stephen C Foster State Park. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message Sunday, 8:55 AM - An early start on a somewhat overcast morning. Grackles and Vultures greet us at the entrance to Billy’s Lake. The Lake is without wave. Although most is still and the stage has not awakened in a dawn chorus of voices and activity, a cooperative Little Blue Heron stands upon the floating peat, the gentle breeze at his back is muffling his "hair".
Egretta caerulea is normally adorned in deep blues and purples, but this one is entirely white. At close range or in good light, the adults have a rich purple-maroon head and neck and dark slaty-blue body. They have yellow eyes, greenish legs, and a bill that is pale blue at the base, black at the tip. But it is the juveniles that are entirely white. |
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