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Okefenokee Paddle from Big Water to Stephen C Foster

4/21/2024

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A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message

Day 3 of our paddle through the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge took us from the Big Water overnight canoe shelter back to civilization at the Stephen C Foster State Park campground on the western side of the Swamp. 

Mile Markers 21 to 26

From Minnie's Lake to Billy's Lake

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Stephen C Foster State Park in the Okefenokee Swamp

4/21/2024

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A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message

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American Alligator with GPS tracker; Stephen C Foster State Park, Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, GA. April 21, 2024.
As we ended our 3-day paddle through the Okefenokee Swamp, we had a couple hours to spend at the Stephen C Foster State Park campground before our shuttle arrived to drive us back to our car on the other side of the swamp at Kingfisher Landing. 
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Swollen Bladderwort in the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge

4/20/2024

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Swollen Bladderwort photographed from the Maul Hammock Shelter; Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia. April 20, 2024 ©williamwisephoto.com (photo #20240420_008)
Swollen Bladderwort (Utricularia inflata) photographed from the Maul Hammock shelter in the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. Swollen Bladderwort is a carnivorous plant that has “seed-like bladders, used to trap invertebrates, from which the plant gains nutrients. Trap doors on the bladders are triggered by the invertebrate, which is sucked inside and digested by enzymes.”
 - Location: Maul Hammock shelter; N31.01668° W82.25699°
 - Sunny, high near 91; low around 64
 - Sunrise 6:55 AM; sunset 8:01 PM
 - Daylight hours: 13 hours, 6 minutes (+1m 45s)
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Okefenokee Swamper Talk

4/19/2024

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Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message
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American Alligator at the Maul Hammock Shelter; Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia. April 19, 2024.
​From the journals of naturalist Francis Harper, 1929: a conversation with Swamper Ezekiel Henderson…
“I was fishing one time in Billies with my old uncle. I was doing the rowing and he was doing the fishing. The ’gators made such a racket I didn’t know what it was. And he told me it was the gators amuddying Big Bonnet Lake by Billy‘s lake. He told me to paddle easy and not hit the boat with the paddle, so we’d slip up on ’em and not disturb ’em and see ’em fishing. We got around a little clump of bushes in plain of Big Bonnet Lake, and they must have been somewhere between one and two thousand of the gators. Bonnet Lake was about four or five acres big. And them gators would rise and jump their length and go down. The bottom of Bonnet Lake is a soft mud. And it was easy to muddy. And they all muddy at the same time, and then stop at the same time and go to fishing just a few breaths. There was jumping and sloshing. They’d go down to the bottom and dig up the mud and scatter it with their tails. And then they’d go to fishing again. I remember one tremendous big alligator that rose up in the water with a trout in his mouth, about 12 or 14 pounds. Had him crossways in his mouth. And he just moved up to the bank and jammed against the bank until he got him headfirst in his mouth, and then swallowed him. That was the first time I was ever there when there was so many gators. And I’ve seen the gators so thick, it look like if you’d been out of the boat and if the gators had held your weight, you could walk all over the lake on gator heads.”
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Okefenokee Swamp Ribbon Snake

4/19/2024

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Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message
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Common Ribbon Snake; Okefenokee Swamp National Wildlife Refuge, GA. April 19, 2024. ©williamwisephoto.com
In April 2024, my daughter and I embarked on another 3-day paddling excursion across the Okefenokee Swamp from Kingfisher Landing to Stephen C Foster. While there are open views of the beautiful swamp prairies, many of the waterways constrict down to narrow channels walled by tangled vegetation. In such thick, muddled mess of vegetation, you can paddle miles without seeing anything but leaves and grasses. On one particular stretch, I just had "that feeling", and began to scan the twisted briars along the run. I have no idea how my daughter and I spotted this pencil-thin, juvenile Ribbon Snake in the tangled vegetation. But what a find!
​Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia. April 19, 2024. Paddling from Kingfisher Landing to Maul Hammock overnight shelter. 
 - Location: mile markers 4 to 5; N30.98840° W82.18715°
 - Sunny, high near 91; low around 64
 - Sunrise 6:55 AM; sunset 7:59 PM
 - Daylight hours: 13 hours, 4 minutes (+1m 44s)
 - Moon: 83% Waxing Gibbous
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Sunset at Maul Hammock Overnight Shelter, Okefenokee Swamp

4/19/2024

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Sunset at Maul Hammock overnight canoe kayak shelter in the Okefenokee Swamp. Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia, USA. April 2024
​Just after 6 PM, my daughter and I reached the Maul Hammock overnight shelter in the Okefenokee Swamp. As we paddled up to the wood plank platform in the middle of a small lake cut into the green field of Spatterdock lily pads, a medium-sized alligator lay just to the left. It watched without moving as we unloaded all of our gear and set up camp for the night.

Maul Hammock lies on the northern side of the Swamp. Because it is a 12 mile paddle from the eastern Kingfisher Landing entrance, and a two-day paddle from the western Stephen C Foster entrance, Maul Hammock is quite remote. A permit is also required to paddle past Big Water or Double Lakes, therefore no other paddlers are usually encountered when heading to Maul Hammock.

After pitching our small tent and enjoying a “college student” meal of canned ravioli, my daughter and I were treated to a beautiful sunset.
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Okefenokee Maul Hammock Overnight shelter

4/19/2024

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A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message

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Maul Hammock Shelter canoe trail directional sign in the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia.
In April 2024, my daughter and I got permits to cross through the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge on a three-day paddle from Kingfisher Landing, westward to Stephen C Foster State Park. Our first evening was spent at the Maul Hammock Shelter. After a full day of paddling and photography, we arrived at Maul Hammock. 
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Maul Hammock is on the northern side of the Okefenokee Swamp. On a map, it appears that you are close to the refuge borders. But on the ground, you get the full sense of wilderness, far from any civilization… not considering the camping dock and privy, of course. I’m all for the wilderness experience, but I’m also thankful, and so is my daughter, that all the camping platforms have a restroom!  They are usually stocked and fairly clean, but it is wise to bring your own paper. 
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Outhouse privy at Maul Hammock canoe kayak overnight camping shelter in Okefenokee Swamp. Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia, USA. April 2024
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Maul Hammock Shelter; Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia.
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Paddling from Bluff Lake to Kingfisher Landing, Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, GEorgia

4/18/2023

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Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message
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Sunrise at the Bluff Lake shelter; Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia. April 18, 2023.
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Okefenokee Swamp Paddling from Kingfisher Landing to Bluff Lake Shelter

4/17/2023

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Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message

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Underside of a Spatterdock Yellow Bonnet Lily Pad in the Okefenokee Swamp National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia. From Kingfisher Landing to Bluff Lake overnight camping shelter. April 17, 2023.
On April 17 and 18, 2023, my daughter and I launched from Kingfisher Landing on the eastern side of the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge and paddled southward to spend the night at the Bluff Lake overnight canoe shelter. 
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Okefenokee Giant Pitcher Plant, Sarracenia minor variety okefenokeensis, along the green canoe kayak trail from Kingfisher Landing to Durdin Prairie in the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia. April 17, 2023.
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Okefenokee Canoe Trails – Stay on the Path!

4/17/2023

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Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message

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Canoe trail mile marker along the green trail from Kingfisher Landing to Bluff Lake overnight camping shelter. Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia. April 17, 2023 ©williamwisephoto.com
​The Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge covers almost 630 square miles. Compare that to the city of Atlanta which covers 134 square miles. Or think of the Okefenokee being double the size of New York City, which spreads an impressive 300 square miles. But unlike Atlanta or New York with over 6,000 miles of roadways, the Okefenokee has only 120 miles of maintained canoe trails, which leaves the vast majority of the Swamp unmarked. Therefore, it could be quite easy to get lost if one paddles away from the marked trails.

This is why the Falcon Guidebook Paddling the Okefenokee exclaims, “Stay on the trails. Once off trail, there are surprisingly few prominent landmarks from which to regain your bearings in the Okefenokee. Some sections in the Okefenokee are obstructed by overhanging branches, downed trees, submerged stumps and logs, masses of floating Pete, aquatic vegetation, narrow banks, shallow water, or other obstacles.”

The designated trails have colored mile markers along the routes. But even with a GPS, I have occasionally found myself doubting my location while paddling the prairies. A mile marker sign may missing, damaged, or in high water, submerged! However, the US Fish and Wildlife Service does an excellent job of keeping the canoe runs obvious and open. But even so, stay on the path!
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Screenshot of my cellphone location while paddling the prairies of the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia. April 17, 2023.
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The Ugly Okefenokee Swamp

4/17/2023

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Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message

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Hooded Pitcher Plant flower; Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, GA. April 17, 2023
My wife has never accompanied my daughter and me on an Okefenokee excursion. She isn’t really one for roughing it outdoors. And every time I mention “the swamp”, she pictures an ugly dark, muddy, gloomy place. I have a hard time convincing her of the beauty that can be found within the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. And maybe I shouldn’t try!  I don’t want to rob her of her rejuvenating time alone when I run off to that ugly Swamp!
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Southern Blue Flag Iris in the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia. April 17, 2023
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Couple of Large Lurking Alligators

4/16/2023

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Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message

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Two large American Alligator laying in dark blackwater in the Okefenokee Swamp National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia. Neverwet Golden Club and Yellow Bonnet Lily pads. April 16, 2023; Suwannee River Middle Fork canoe trail.
Most of the big alligators concentrate on the larger, open lakes within the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. Some of the smaller ones may take up residence along the more shallow and constricted runs through the swamp. This pair of large alligators was lurking just off the main canoe trail along the Suwannee River Middle Fork, just a few hundreds yards up from Billy’s Lake.
​Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia. Sunday, April 16, 2023.
– Location: Suwannee Middle Fork (red canoe trail) between Billy’s and Minnie’s Lake N30.84853° W82.33286°
– Cloudy with high 83, low 52.
– Sunrise 7:00 AM; Sunset 7:58 PM
– Daylight hours: 12 hours 57 minute (+1m 48s)
Other alligators along Billy's Lake: 
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Attention Okefenokee Flower Hunters

4/16/2023

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Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message
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Southern Blue Flag Iris flower and cypress stump in Okefenokee Swamp National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia USA. Iris virginica is native to the United States and grows in wet areas such as marshes, swamps, river bottoms, ponds, and shallow water.
​I have to admit, my lure to the Great Okefenokee Swamp is the alligators and snakes. But for those seeking a less hostile beauty, this National Wildlife Refuge holds treasures for the botanist and flower hunter. At certain times of the year, the blue/purple Southern Blue Flag irises stand tall above the bright Yellow Bonnet Lilies. Vibrant multi-colored spikes of Golden Club protrude from the dark waters. Tiny bells of Lyonia hang gracefully along the canoe trails. And the quintessential American White Water Lilies shine brightly in the prairies and cypress houses. Not to mention the many other species of vegetation and flora. 
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Camouflaged Okefenokee Brown Watersnake

4/16/2023

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Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message

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Brown Watersnake; Okefenokee Swamp National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia. April 16, 2023 ©williamwisephoto.com
While the prairies of the eastern side of the Okefenokee Swamp are wide open and sunlit, much of the western side – especially the portions along the Suwannee River East Fort – is shaded by the tall cypress and tangle of vegetation. Only the small lakes and the canoe trails maintained by the Fish and Wildlife Service are open to the sun. In the shady areas, many of the snakes stretch themselves out along the branches that overhang the canoe trails in order to get some sun.

My daughter has a knack for picking out the snakes hidden in the dense vegetation. This particularly well-hidden Brown Watersnake (Nerodia taxispilota) was barely visible along the thick branches. She spotted it while we were enjoying a slow paddle just north of Minnie’s Lake.
Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia. Sunday, April 16, 2023.
 - Location: north of Minnie's Lake between mile markers 24 and 25; N30.88296° W82.29563°
 - Cloudy with high 83, low 52.
 - Sunrise 7:00 AM; Sunset 7:58 PM
 - Daylight hours: 12 hours 57 minute (+1m 48s)
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Brown Watersnake; Okefenokee Swamp National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia. April 16, 2023 ©williamwisephoto.com
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Alligator Blue 208

4/15/2023

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Okefenokee Photography by William Wise. A nature photo journal exploration of Georgia's Okefenokee Swamp, the Land of Trembling Earth, one of the largest blackwater swamps in North America. The alligators, birds, snakes and wildlife of Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. -- "What a wildly wonderful world, God! You made it all, with Wisdom at Your side, made earth overflow with your wonderful creations." Psalms 104 The Message

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Blue 208, a ten-foot male American Alligator tagged in a research program at the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia. April 15, 2023.
"Alligator Blue 208"... No, that isn't a play called out by a college football quarter back. It is the new identification of an American Alligator in the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. On April 14, 2023, my daughter and I were excited to tag along with the UGA Coastal Ecology Lab to tag some alligators. After getting the gators to the bank, they are measured, have blood drawn and gender identified, and are tagged before a safe release. "Blue 208" was a large, 10-foot male... one of the biggest ones tagged that weekend. 
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American Alligator tail showing the cut caudal scutes and an identification tag; capture-tag-release research program in the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, Georgia. April 15, 2023
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