Waltonpets Furtography session: Look into my eyes...

"Grimm", stray kitten turned in and adopted in October, 2016. Photographed in studio using 40mm macro lens; f/3.2; 1/125 sec; ISO 125. Support my work by downloading this photo at www.dreamstime.com. 100% of funds go back into shelter adoption photography and education programs.

"Premier" picked up stray 10/8/16 and his owner didn't come for him. He was rescued by Safe Harbor Rescue. Notice how blurry the nose is when shooting with a wide aperture and focusing on the eyes. Shot outdoors in shade using 40mm macro lens; f/3.0; 1/100 sec.; ISO 560. Support my work by downloading this photo at www.dreamstime.com. 100% of funds go back into shelter adoption photography and education programs.

​Monday, 11:39 AM - Over the years, I’ve received emailed comments that read, “I found your shelter’s photos on Facebook, and those eyes got me…”  I always try to post a full body shot so adopters and rescues can get a better idea of the size and conformation of a dog.  But I also always try to include a portrait or close-up shot that reveals the animal’s eyes. I’m hoping for a connection that makes them want to adopt.

Therefore, it is important to focus on the eyes. Today’s cameras are equipped with excellent autofocus (AF). But even when utilizing autofocus, the photographer has to make some decisions. My Nikon camera allows for single-point AF and Auto-area AF.

In Auto-area AF, when you depress the shutter release half way, the camera automatically detects the subject and selects the focus point, and usually does a very good job. However, on a portrait or close up of a kittens face, the camera may focus on the nose rather than the cat’s eyes. Because I am shooting the cat with a wide open aperture (f/1.8), there is a very shallow depth of field and the eyes may be blurry if the nose is the focus point.

So, rather than selecting auto-area AF, I set my Nikon on the single-point AF mode. I then have one illuminated point in the viewfinder for focusing on the eyes. The focus point can be easily moved by pressing the multi-selector on the back of the camera with my thumb; or returned to center by pressing the ‘ok’ button. Most DSLR cameras also have focus lock so you can focus on the desired point, lock the focus, and then recompose.
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Much of this may sound difficult, but watching a few videos or reading the manual will explain it all in simple terms (see nikonusa.com article). After practicing for short time, it becomes second nature. I now don’t even think about toggling around the focus point as the little critters move around.

Often, I will use a few tools in Photoshop to brighten and sharpen the eyes before posting. But that will be another blog.  

Hope this helps!  ​